Part 2 of 2 in this mini Turn Around series features a few peaks that I’ve sub-categorized as “Try Agains” – pretty straightforward. These are the peaks that took more than one go to complete, and the ones I’ve selected to share here follow the theme from Part 1: the first attempt(s) usually ended within a couple hundred metres of the summit, and for some reason or another ended in a turn-around. Enjoy!
1. Eiffel Peak. June 24th 2015, Turned around at approx 3050m
Although I’ve reached the summit a total of 3 times since this, my first try at this popular hike/scramble ended with a panicked turn-around less than 50m from the summit proper. At this point in time I had very limited experience in the alpine and no confidence with snow travel nor the gear for it. Instead of taking the snow covered slabs under Eiffel’s summit block, I opted to scramble up a steep(ish) gully to the climber’s right. Having only scrambled twice before this particular trip, I got freaked out pretty quickly and called it quits. My friend Jules had crampons and an ice axe so summited via the slope in less than 10 minutes, but then took 45 minutes to descend as the snow was in a rotten slushy state. I returned a month later and successfully ascended in dry conditions with a different team, and would later make successful ascents in 2016 and 2017.
2. Mount Lady MacDonald. Multiple Attempts in Winter 2015/16.
This took a few cracks before finally reaching the summit proper and signing the register on Feb 11th, 2016. In part this one took so many attempts – 3 in total before a successful 4th – due to the fact I was trying to complete the route in winter conditions, was still a novice, and was recovering from a shoulder injury.
The photo above is from the 3rd attempt that I made with a colleague on Dec 25th 2015. On this attempt, I made it as far as the infamous knife edge that separates the false summit from true summit but backed away from the exposure. Simply put – I wasn’t ready for the level of exposure that ridge offers, nor was my colleague who took the photo, who was also the one that definitively called our turn around. I estimate I was within 30m horizontal when I turned back on that attempt, having already reached the false summit.
Previous to the Dec 25th trip, I had made two failed attempts. The first one with a roommate of mine ended at the treeline, it was both our first hike with fresh ‘ontario legs’ so we had severely underestimated the effort. My second attempt was a solo effort a week later, which ended half way up the shoulder above the old tea hose platform when the winds shifted and weather deteriorated.
3. Cougar Peak. Multiple Attempts in Winter 2016. Turn around at approx 2400m
Similar to the reasons for why Mt Lady Mac took a few tries – the two attempts I made at Cougar Peak were during the same winter season: thus lack of experience and injury recovery. Worth noting that on my second attempt, I actually dislocated my shoulder when lowering myself out of the drainage at ground level into Cougar Creek. Luckily I was able to pop-it back in and hiked out unassisted.
Out of the two attempts, the attempt on Jan 22nd 2016 was the more successful of the two. This first attempt involved much route finding and there was limited beta online at the time – I believe I relied heavily on Bob Spirko’s description. This attempt however ended in a turn around mainly because we took too long route finding and started losing daylight near the crux. In addition to this, the crux was ice covered. While we were finding it manageable to climb up, I feared what would happen if we were to down climb it in the dark – for context read the trip report for Mt Charles Stewart which we had just done a week before this attempt at Cougar.
The second attempt was made a few weeks later in early march, and ended around 2200m due to deteriorating weather conditions and increasing avalanche risk in the upper bowl that sits under the crux section. Partly due to the long access up Cougar Creek and to other more appealing objectives, I didn’t revisit Cougar Peak again until Spring 2018 where on the third attempt I successfully reached the summit in a team of four. I have written the trip report for Cougar Peak based on the 2018 attempt
4. Paget Peak Traverse 2015 – 2018
This one is more-so an honourable mention versus a true turn-around in that these trips (3 in total) were never failed attempts. We simply went to the next ‘peak’ on each trip and were content upon reaching the set target. I initially hiked up the popular and officially recognized Paget Peak in 2015; later returned for Paget II in 2016; and eventually did the traverse to Paget III in 2018.
I use the term ‘peak’ loosely here as only the first peak is officially recognized and the terms Paget II and Paget III are unofficial terms I’ve used to describe the high points further along the ridge (though I have seen ‘Paget II’ used in other blogs).
There is in my opinion a ‘Paget IV’ beyond the black rock band where the Mount Daly and Mt Bosworth massifs connect, in the photo above this is the sharp prominent peak to the left. Though this peak could also be coined “Little Daly” or “Daly South” or even “Daly II” as it is more directly connected to Mount Daly than it is to Paget Peak. It would require a serious loss of elevation and regaining of elevation if traversed from Paget Peak, and perhaps would be better accessed from Niles Meadow via a good ‘ol bush thrashing. I hate bush thrashing, so I would likely attempt it as a traverse and tie in Mt Daly as part of the same trip. Maybe.
Steep Sheep 